Metallic Epoxy: Finishes, Pigments and Techniques

Metallic epoxy creates a finish that looks liquid even after it has cured. Fine metallic pigments suspended in the resin catch the light and shift as you walk past, producing swirls, ripples and cells that resemble molten copper, polished marble, storm clouds or the surface of a planet. The same basic material is used on tables, kitchen worktops, bar tops and whole floors. This guide explains what metallic pigments are, how they differ from mica, the main techniques for moving them around, and how to seal the result so it lasts.

What is metallic epoxy?

Metallic epoxy is ordinary clear epoxy resin with metallic-effect pigment mixed into it. The pigment particles are flat and flaky. While the resin is liquid they can move, rotate and settle; wherever they lie flat they reflect light brightly, and wherever they are tilted or pushed together they look darker. That difference, frozen as the resin cures, is what creates the three-dimensional movement in the finish.

Because the effect depends on particles moving in liquid resin, the type of epoxy matters. A thinner, slower-curing resin gives you more working time and more movement; a thick, fast resin locks the pattern in before you have shaped it. Coatings used for counters and floors are usually around 3mm thick, while tables may use a metallic layer within a thicker pour.

Metallic pigments vs mica powder

The terms are often used loosely, but there are real differences.

Many metallic epoxy systems sold for floors and counters use specially formulated pigments designed to stay suspended and move predictably. Craft mica works well for smaller pieces and art. Our guide to mica powder for resin covers pearlescent effects in more detail, and how to colour epoxy resin explains how pigments, dyes and pastes compare.

How much pigment?

Follow the pigment maker’s recommendation, which is usually a small percentage by weight of the mixed resin. Too little gives a weak, washed-out look; too much can affect the cure and leaves a flat, muddy surface without movement. Always weigh pigment for repeatability, mix it thoroughly into Part A or the mixed resin, and make a test board before committing to a large surface.

Metallic epoxy techniques

The pattern is created while the resin is liquid. Most finishes combine several of these methods.

• Pouring in ribbons: pour two or three colours in lines or S-shapes and let them flow into each other. Contrast between a dark base and a bright metallic gives the strongest depth.
• Heat gun swirls: a heat gun on a low setting pushes and thins the surface, opening up the bright veins and drifting colours together. Keep it moving; holding it still can overheat the resin and cause rippling or yellowing.
• Brushing and dragging: a dry brush, roller or gloved hand drawn through the wet resin creates marble veins and flowing lines.
• Lacing and cells: a fine mist of isopropyl alcohol on the surface breaks the film into cells and lacy patterns. Alcohol is highly flammable, so never use it at the same time as a torch or heat gun, and ventilate well.
• Dirty pour: layers of colour combined in one cup and poured together, giving organic, unpredictable movement. Good for art panels and small tables.

Work in a room at a steady 20–25°C, wear nitrile gloves, eye protection and a respirator rated for organic vapours, and keep pets and dust away until the surface skins over. Plan the whole surface before you start, because you cannot pause halfway across a top while the resin cures.

Metallic epoxy table

On furniture, metallic resin can form the whole top, fill a river between timber slabs or sit as a decorative layer beneath clear resin. For a full-metallic table top, a typical sequence is a sealed substrate, a pigmented base coat that sets the background colour, the metallic flood coat worked with the techniques above and a clear top layer for depth and protection. In a river design, metallic pigment in the river with clear resin above gives a molten look that contrasts well with dark timber such as walnut. Sealing porous wood first prevents air bubbles rising into the metallic layer; see our guide to sealing wood for epoxy. For the overall build process, start with our epoxy table guide, and for colour schemes our epoxy table ideas.

Metallic epoxy countertops

A metallic epoxy countertop is normally a coating applied over an existing worktop or a new substrate, rather than a solid cast slab. At a high level the process is: degrease and abrade the existing surface, prime it with a bonding primer, apply a coloured base coat, then pour the metallic flood coat and let it run over the edges, scraping the drips underneath before they cure. Many installers finish with a clear topcoat.

Be realistic about kitchen use. Epoxy is tough but not as scratch or heat resistant as stone; always use chopping boards and trivets, and expect fine scratches over time. Standard epoxy can also yellow in strong sunlight, so look at UV resistant epoxy resin for sunny kitchens. For bar and café counters, our page on bar top epoxy covers self-levelling coatings and edge work.

Metallic epoxy floors

Metallic epoxy floors are popular in garages, showrooms, shops and modern homes. They are a different scale of job from a table: concrete usually has to be diamond-ground, repaired and tested for moisture, a primer applied, then the metallic coat spread with squeegees and rollers by a team working quickly in spiked shoes before the resin starts to cure. A clear topcoat, often polyurethane or polyaspartic, is commonly added for scratch and UV resistance, and an anti-slip additive can be used where needed.

Because preparation failures cause peeling and bubbling across the whole floor, large metallic floors are usually best left to specialist contractors. The design principles are the same as on a table, though, and a small test panel is a good way to choose colours.

Sealing, finishing and care

• Topcoats: a clear epoxy flood coat adds depth; a polyurethane or polyaspartic topcoat adds scratch and UV resistance on counters and floors.
• Polishing: on tables, a final sand and polish removes dust nibs and gives a glassy finish. See how to polish epoxy resin.
• Cleaning: mild soapy water and a soft cloth. Avoid abrasive pads, bleach and solvent sprays, which dull the surface.
• Heat: use mats and trivets; hot pans can mark or soften epoxy.

If you are learning to work with resin generally, our hub on how to pour epoxy resin covers mixing, pour depths, bubbles and cure times, all of which apply directly to metallic epoxy.

Most shimmering pigments start life as a mineral. Wikipedia’s article on mica explains how ground mica, often coated with titanium dioxide, creates the pearlescent and metallic effects used in paints, cosmetics and decorative coatings.

Related guide: Mica Powder: Uses, Colours & Pigment Guide for Resin

Frequently asked questions

Is metallic epoxy durable?

Yes, cured epoxy is hard and water resistant, but it scratches more easily than stone and can mark under hot pans. A clear protective topcoat improves durability on counters and floors.

Can I use mica powder for a metallic epoxy look?

Mica gives a softer pearlescent shimmer. For a bold, mirror-like metallic finish, use pigments made specifically for metallic epoxy systems, or combine both.

How thick should a metallic epoxy countertop be?

Most metallic countertop coatings are applied as a flood coat of roughly 3mm, which self-levels and gives the pigment room to move. Follow your system’s data sheet.

Does metallic epoxy turn yellow?

Standard epoxy can yellow with UV exposure, which is most noticeable on light colours. UV-stabilised resin or a UV-resistant topcoat slows this down.

Can I do a metallic epoxy floor myself?

Small floors are possible for experienced DIYers, but concrete preparation and the short working time make large floors a job for specialist installers.

Considering a metallic finish for a bespoke table? Talk to Go Bespoke, or watch our resin builds on YouTube.